How I converted Pentax K-7 to IR
(This is my first entry in English, English is not my first language, please accept any possible language mistakes …)
All digital cameras can capture infrared light, but the sensors have a filter in front of the sensor, simply by removing the filter, you can shoot IR with a regular camera.
On the lens is mounted a filter that only (almost) emits infrared light.
The camera can be modified by any handy man or special company.
I’ve previously converted a Pentax istD, which was quite easy.
The problem with that camera was several, above all, that I did not see anything through the viewfinder, I solved it with a loose viewfinder mounted in the flash shoe holder.
The camera could not use auto focus, which made it difficult to even take a single picture!
It was like closing your eyes and taking pictures …
My attempt to convert k-7 was successful, although I could not find any info online about someone else who even tried that model.
Let me say right now that everything works, live-view, auto focus, exposure, white balance, stills and movies!
Here’s a brief description of how I did, if you want to try it, do it at your own risk!
Remove the battery and memory card.
Remove the shoulder strap and the lens, put on a body cover.
Prepare your tools.
Screwdriver Phillips 00 and soldering iron are necessary.
Take notes and a lot of pictures.
Arrange a method of saving the screw, I counted to 10 different types.
I have written on the pictures what it should be, but I may have done it wrong.
(Welcome to correct any errors).
All screws are 1.6mm diameter, plastic screws are only indicated with length, metal screws with one M before length.
Loosen the underside, one screw is in the battery compartment.
Loosen the upper part, one screw is located behind the rubber cover, about where the left index finger is located during shooting …
Remove eye piece to access 2 screw.
Continue with the screws on the sides.
Gently lift the top and back.
Be careful when moving the cables on the left side, the flash capacitor may be charged with several hundred volts and it hurts to touch the wrong place.
Release the back of the back cover.
Undo the contacts at the bottom.
With a soldering iron loosen all cables at the bottom, first by just melting the tin, then suck with a solder braid and then apply a fresh solder, preferably with lead / tin.
Lift up the circuit board and continue removing the 3 screws holding the sensor assembly.
In the picture you can see how I have loosened several screws, but they should not be removed, just remove those that have some kind of glue on the head.
Note, when unscrew, you must count the number of turns you twisted the screw, it should be later mounted with the same number.
Remove the sensor unit.
It contains powerful magnets, be careful not any screw or junk attaches to them.
Remove 2 screws that hold the black frame.
Very carefully, lift the frame together with the IR filter.
Now you see that the filter consists of 2 parts, 1 front cover to keep, the IR filter is mounded with double-sided tape.
I just removed the filter, pro are mounting an extra clear glass, I do not have access to anything that suits.
After my experiment with istD i know this will works anyway …
Replace the sensor assembly, mount in the screws with the same number of turns that you unmount.
If you are a pro, you have access to a micrometer and can calibrate the distance from the lens mount …
Mount your circuit board and re-solder the cables.
Insert all contacts.
Fit the rear and top part.
Fit the bottom piece.
Plug in a memory card and battery.
Mount an objective and turn on the camera.
Take a picture.
If you get a picture and it’s a bit red, so to say, you’ve been successful!